Umbrella

The schools reopen for the new session in Kerala after the summer vacation in June every year.  The school opening is marked by the commencement of the monsoon rains and in the low-lying areas of Kottayam, there would invariably be floods and the schools are often closed at least for a fortnight thereafter.

Our father was the headmaster of a school in thithereafter.qs area near Kumarakom and once I asked him “Why can’t you have an extended school session till April end and have summer vacation in May and June?”

“This idea was tried out unsuccessfully as the combination of extremely hot summer days and scarcity of drinking water posed major difficulties and hence the proposal was shelved,” he replied.

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The low-lying areas of Kottayam are a part of the North Kuttanad, known as the rice bowl of Kerala. This is perhaps the only region in the world where rice farming is done at about 2.5 meter below sea level.  The paddy fields are reclaimed land from the backwaters.  In case one embarks on a boat ride through the backwaters, one can observe that the paddy fields are at a much lower level than the water level of the backwaters.  If you carefully observe the images above or below, you can differentiate the two levels.

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Kuttanad meaning ‘low lying lands’ is one of the most fertile regions of Kerala, spread over the districts of Alappuzha and Kottayam, crisscrossed by rivers, canals and waterways.  The region contains the low-lying lands measuring about 25 kilometers East-West and 60 kilometers North-South on the West coast of Kerala. A major portion of this area lies 1 to 2.5 meters below the sea level.  Kuttanad has 1,10,000 hectare area, of which 50 % is reclaimed and 88 % is under agriculture.  The area is characterised by Dyke building in deep waters, land reclamation and maintenance and Rice-Fish rotation farming.

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The dykes (bund) construction and maintenance are intricate tasks, for which an array of long and stout coconut poles are hammered deep enough into the lakebed in two rows, about two meters in width enveloping the entire area. It is then fenced with bamboo mats on either side.  The channels of the bund are now filled to the desired height, first with sand, followed by twigs, interspersed with high quality clay dug from the bottom of the lake.  Then water is pumped out and the land is prepared for rice cultivation.

The dykes are now mostly permanent ones built with granites and concrete.  Only a few gaps are left to facilitate flowing in of water after the harvest.  The gaps are filled prior to cultivation as mentioned above.  In the earlier days, water was pushed out from the low lying areas manually using a waterwheel.  Nowadays, the manual labour has been replaced by electric pumps.

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During heavy monsoons, the flood waters may breach the bunds and inundate the paddy fields, causing heavy losses to the farmers.

The freshwater environment close to rice fields and the canals provide abundance of Pearl spots (Karimeen for which Kerala is well known for), fresh water giant prawns (Attukonju) and freshwater catfish.

So much for the geography of Kuttanad and its peculiarities.

Let me now relate to a monsoon related necessity. It was customary for our father to gift all four of us with an umbrella, with our name inscribed on it, at the beginning of every school year.  One either lost them or damaged them as the school year passed by. In the autumn of his life, he resumed the old habit and continued with the same gift to all his grandchildren.

In China, gifting your friend an umbrella means you want to end the relationship because umbrella sounds like San in Chinese, which means to separate. Giving a married couple an umbrella as a gift should be avoided in all cases, at least in China. The Chinese believe that if it is raining and you are worried, he or she will get wet, it’s better for both of you to huddle under one umbrella until you reach your partner’s destination.

That brings me to a personal anecdote related to the gifting of umbrellas. A few weeks after assuming command of the unit in the operational area in Rajasthan, our Second-in-Command (2IC) Late Col Suresh Babu approached me and said “There are about 100 umbrellas lying unsold in the Regimental Canteen at Devlali, Maharashtra.  I propose a 50% reduction sale for them.”  

I realised with the unit in the operational area, it may not be feasible to execute the sale.

After analysing the loss being incurred by the canteen and the overall cost of the umbrellas, and taking a cue from my father, I said “Let the Regiment buy all the umbrellas from the Regimental fund and let them be gifted to all children of the unit at the beginning of the academic session.”

As in Kerala, in Devlali too, the monsoons pour down heavily coinciding with the school opening, but luckily there are no floods.  The gift must have impressed all the families and children, back in Devlali as they had not yet met the new Commanding Officer.

In 2009, five years after handing over command, I received a call from Subedar Ravinder Singh.  His son came online and said “Sir, the umbrella you gifted to me at the time of taking over command of the unit has been preserved by me and was always a sign of encouragement for me.  Thank you very much Sir and also for training all the children of our unit on computers.  The introductory training to technology I received at that early age made me explore the world further and it has helped me immensely in my career. Thank you, Sir.

Most of your deeds and actions may not matter much to you, but it matters to the one who is in the receiving end.  The resultant effect will always be as to how the receiver perceives it. And, if the recipient perceives it well, he or she will replicate it in later life, in one form or the other.

Good deeds generally have a chain reaction as do bad deeds. But in case of good deeds the chain is generally much longer than in the case of bad deeds.

Malabar and Tellicherry Pepper

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If you browse the spice aisle of any grocery store in Canada, you will almost certainly find jars labeled Malabar Black Pepper and Tellicherry Black Pepper. While Malabar easily evokes the historic, tropical coast of southwestern India, it raises a fascinating question: how did Tellicherry—a relatively small coastal town in Kerala—earn its own permanent, premium designation on global spice shelves?The answer lies in a convergence of geographical luck, deep colonial history, and the ancient trade routes that shaped world religions.

From Head of Offices to the Paris of Kerala

Tellicherry is the Anglicised name given by the British to Thalassery. The name originates from the Malayalam words Thala (Head) and Kacheri (Office), translating directly to the head of offices. During the colonial era, European traders fell in love with the town’s vibrant culture, unique charm, and strategic location, nicknaming it the Paris of Kerala. This moniker was particularly fitting due to its close proximity to Mahé, which served as the primary French military base in the region before the French eventually consolidated their forces there and abandoned Thalassery to British hands.

The Geographical Advantage and the Rise of the East India Company

Thalassery’s rise as a global trade hub was purely geographic. It was the closest point on the Arabian Sea coast to the dense, high-altitude spice-growing regions of Wayanad.

  • The 16th Century: The town developed aggressively when the British East India Company secured permission from the local ruler to construct a trading factory.
  • 1708 (The Fort Walls): Following routine friction with local chieftains, the British built the massive Thalassery Fort on land gifted by the local king. To sweeten the alliance, the king granted the British the right to trade pepper duty-free.
  • Capital of North Malabar: With a fortified base and tax-exempt trade, Thalassery transformed into British Malabar’s premier port. Following the defeat of Tipu Sultan at the Battle of Seringapatam, the British assumed absolute administrative authority over the entire region, cementing Thalassery as the capital of British North Malabar.

The Industrialisation of Spice: The World’s Largest Plantations

The British quickly moved from merely trading spices to controlling their production:

  • 1797 (The Anjarakandy Plantation): The East India Company established a massive spice plantation in nearby Anjarakandy, later leased to Lord Murdoch Brown on a 99-year term. It cultivated coffee, cinnamon, pepper, and nutmeg, eventually growing into the world’s largest cinnamon plantation at the time.
  • Infrastructure Enablers: The colonial government built the Tellicherry Lighthouse in 1835 to guide heavy trade vessels, constructed a massive new spice warehouse in 1863, and even opened South India’s very first Sub-Registrar Office in 1865—solely to handle the complex property legalities of Murdoch Brown’s sprawling plantation.
  • 1866 (Municipal Milestone): Under the Madras Act of 1865, the Thalassery Municipality was officially formed on November 1, 1866, making it the second oldest municipality in the state of Kerala.

The Ancient Monopolies: From Egyptian Mummies to Serpent Myths

Long before Europeans stepped foot in India, Arab traders held a strict monopoly over the Malabar pepper trade dating back to roughly 1500 BC. They navigated the coastline of the Arabian Sea, entering the inland regions via Kerala’s sprawling backwaters and rivers.

The scope of this ancient trade network was jaw-dropping. When the great Egyptian Pharaoh Ramesses II died in 1213 BC, his body underwent complex mummification rituals that included stretching black peppercorns from Malabar directly into his nostrils to preserve the shape of his nose.

To protect this incredibly lucrative trade from inquisitive European empires, Arab merchants spun elaborate, terrifying myths. The merchants claimed that Tellicherry’s deep pepper forests were guarded by vicious, multi-headed serpents. To harvest the spice, locals supposedly had to set the forests on fire to scare the snakes away. According to the myth, it was this intense harvesting fire that scorched the peppercorns, giving them their signature shriveled, pitch-black color.

How Trade Sewed the Seeds of Religion

Unlike many regions of the world where religion arrived at the edge of a sword, Judaism, Christianity, and Islam came to Kerala purely through the peaceful channels of trade.

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  • Islam: Continuous maritime interactions between Arab merchants and local communities led to settlements, marital alliances, and a flourishing Muslim population. In southern trading outposts like Kottayam’s Thazhathangady (Lower Market), Islam grew naturally around the riverbanks where spice barges docked. Kerala boasts the Cheramaan Juma Masjid (built in 629 AD), widely recognised as the oldest active mosque in the Indian subcontinent.
  • Christianity & Judaism: Local Saint Thomas Christians trace their roots back to the 1st century, believing that St. Thomas the Apostle traveled to Malabar on an ancient spice trading vessel. Later, waves of Jews and Christians fleeing persecution in Persia fled to Kerala on Arab ships and were welcomed with open arms by Hindu rulers. The Malabar Jews settled in Fort Kochi by the 12th century, building historic synagogues and even developing Judeo-Malayalam, a localised dialect of the native language
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Black Gold and the Currency of the Modern World

Peppercorns were so highly valued in medieval Europe that they were known as Black Gold. The spice was used as direct commodity money to pay rent, taxes, and dowries.

This historic legacy still exists in modern Western legal systems today through the term peppercorn rent—a legal phrase denoting a nominal, token payment made simply to keep a contract legally binding. Similarly, the Dutch language still uses the phrase peperduur (pepper expensive) to describe items that carry an astronomical price tag.

It was this very financial desperation for pepper that drove Vasco da Gama to circumvent Africa in 1498, opening a direct sea route to India and eventually allowing the Portuguese to claim exclusive rights to the Malabar pepper trade under the Treaty of Tordesillas.

The Legacy Today

At one point in history, black pepper accounted for a staggering 70 percent of the entire international spice trade. As more global trade routes opened over the centuries, production democratized, prices stabilized, and the fiery spice integrated itself into the everyday cuisines of ordinary people across the globe.

Today, global agricultural dynamics have completely shifted. Vietnam is now the world’s largest producer and exporter of black pepper, supplying roughly 34% of global demand. Yet, despite the rise of massive corporate mega-farms across Southeast Asia, the culinary world still looks to the coast of Kerala. Jars in Canadian supermarkets proudly retain the names Malabar and Tellicherry—a tribute to the tiny Paris of Kerala and the historic black gold that fundamentally rewrote global geography.